Saturday, October 27, 2012

Game Notes: Ole Miss

What a great, competitive game to watch. I took my nine-year-old daughter and even she was engaged til the end (with a few mini sinking spells).

My thoughts are these:

  • I was really proud of how the team fought til the end, and Dennis Johnson was flat-out amaze balls. Just incredible. I love watching that guy run.
  • Johnson did enough to make up for how badly Tyler Wilson actually played. He threw into tight spots at least 10 times. Two or three of them were incredible receptions -- that were lucky. The rest were either almost or actually intercepted. Wilson lost track of the game clock -- twice? I heard something about maybe his hip hurt? Perhaps that might led to his questionable judgement. Not used to him throwing so many bad balls.
  • The Ole Miss kicker is a gamer. 54 yards AND the game-winner? Please tell me he isn't a freshman.
  • I can not imagine a world in which the illegal formation call that took Arkansas' beautiful touchdown away is actually valid. Refs also missed two pass interference calls against Ole Miss. Has anyone ever seen grounding called three times in one game? Weird. Never seen refs booed like that.
  • The defense really kept us in this game and deserves tons of credit. It's too bad they just collapsed completely during that final two-minute drive. Poor guys. They held onto the rope as long as they could.
  • There was a stretch in the game where Ole Miss threw a screen to the left THREE TIMES IN A ROW and it worked each time. Twice out of the tripps formation, and once with a single receiver. Then, they faked the throw over there on the fourth time and I seriously thought the QB would run it in for a touchdown, but thankfully, we figured it out. How can a screen to the left work on three straight plays?
  • It felt really good to watch John L. get mad and give the refs and earful. I have wanted to see passion and gametime involvement from him and he came up with it today in spades.
  • Once again, fans left the stadium in the fourth quarter even before the Hogs got the ball back for the final drive that tied it. They left because they thought we were done. Such an assinine thing to do. If you go to the game, watch the game. Please.
  • I knew we would probably lose when the punt was blocked, because that is what happens 90 percent of the time, so I was amazed when we actually had a chance at the end. Our last drive was the second most incredible thing in the game -- second to their last drive.
  • I would like to know exactly how that punt got blocked. John L. has already taken the blame for it. But I have other special teams questions. For example, why hasn't Dennis Johnson, last year's best kickoff returner in the SEC, done anything at all this year with that role? Totally different guy, though he is tearing it up from scrimmage. Also, why can't we find someone on the team who can actually catch a punt? And, why is it that when Adams was returning punts, there was often space between him and the approaching kickoff team, but this year the coverage guys are already on top of the punt returner every single time? Is that to be balmed on our coverage scheme? Terrible blocking? Returner playing too shallow? Our special teams went from just about the best around last year to incomprehensively bad this year, with the exception of our place kicker and the distances logged by our punter when he isn't getting blocked or having the snap sent over his head.
Now go read the food part, because that's what this is really about. :-)

Shrimp and Grits, Mayonnaise Biscuits and Hot(ty) Toddies

ARKANSAS VS. OLE MISS


Good morning from Little Rock Arkansas, 4 a.m. on the day of the Ole Miss game. I can't sleep. I am so excited that all I can do is write about food and dream about football. Who would have thought this game could bring so much excitement?

The last Little Rock game brought the agony of the Monroe loss, followed by three more losses and a mass exodus of fans. I had to stop listening to talk radio completely to avoid the softening of my brain. But the Hogs have surged in the last two contests, soundly beating Auburn and demolishing Kentucky in a rain-shortened game that was over on the Tyler Wilson's first snap.Now the team is in contention for a bowl game again. With Ole Miss emerging from its own funk to find an identity under new coach Hugh Freeze, this game looks great. Two evenly matched teams approaching the game from opposite directions, really wantiing and needing the win in the worst way.

Plus, I have to tell you that I am still thinking about the great time I had in The Grove last year when we visited Ole Miss. It too was a morning game, with that nip in the air and bourbon in my Solo cup. There was white chocolate bread pudding warmed by Sterno cans. The Elvis tent. Crazy chandelliers. Impromptu games of "panty, no panty" as the sorority girls parade.

Ole Miss fans are incredibly hospitable and they have a great environment to be hosts in. My wife went to Ole Miss, as did many of my colleagues and some of my clients. It's hard not to like those guys, especially since they got rid of Houston Nutt, and even in spite of those awful helmets. I went to that game in Oxford with friends and made some good memories. Now, another crisp fall day approaches, Ole Miss alums and waking up in Little Rock and I am getting ready to spend time with old friends again. It's a great time to forget about contentious things like the election and focus on family, friends, traditions and just plain old good times.

This week's blog fodder is traditional southern fare with a small nod to the Ole Miss Hotty Toddy cheer. We all have endearing traditions, but this one actually sounds like a cocktail, so its all the more endearing to me.

"Hotty Toddy, Gosh almigitht
Who the hell are we, Hey!
Flim Flam, Bim Bam
OLE MISS BY DAMN!"

Coupled with the hog call, this makes for a great morning of strange southern traditions.

As for the game, I expect a great contest full of startling offensive plays. Arkansas' Dennis Johnson will have a monster day at running back and Tyler Wilson will light up the scoreboard with his arm. I expect to hear Ole Miss receiver Dante Moncrief's name called a lot. There's going to be a lot of scoring, and I think this one will be decided late in the fourth quarter. The Hogs will get their third straight win, 37-34, and have a shot at four in a row next week against Tulsa.

This blog is written today in the spirit of the unofficial Ole Miss motto: "We might not win the game, but we ain't never lost a party, ya'll."

First and Ten: Shrimp and Grits

This is straight from Paula Deen and her book, Paula Deen and friends, Simon & Shuster, 2005. It serves 8 as an appetizer or four as a main course. I have made no attempt to reduce the calories, and have rejected her son's lighter version of the recipe out of hand as it contains Canadian bacon, for God's sake. According to Paula, it only takes 15 minutes to prepare her recipe if you have everting chopped and measures before cooking.

1 cup stone-ground grits
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup butter
2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined, left whole if small and roughly chopped if medium or large
6 slices bacon, chopped into tiny pieces
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green parts
1 large garlic clove, minced

Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the grits and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well with a whisk. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cook the grits until all the water is absorbed, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the butte and cheese. Keep covered until ready to serve



Rinse the shrimp and pat dry. Fry the bacon in a large skillet until browned and crisp, then drain on a paper towel. Add the shrimp to the bacon grease in the skillet and saute over medium heat just until they turn pink, about 3 ninutes. Do not overcook! Immediately add the lemon joice, parsley, green onions and garlic. Remove the skillet from the heat.

Pour the grits into a serving bowl, pour the shrimp misture over the grits and garnish with the bacon bits.





 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sideline Route: Mayonnaise Biscuits

My wife, Sarah, had these biscuits when she was a kid and remembers them fondly. They are moist, colorful and simple. This recipe comes to us from allrecipes.com, but the exact same recipe is all over the internet on various sites.

2 cups self-rising flour
1 cup milk
6 tablespoons mayonnaise

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Mix the ingredients in a bowl until just mixed. Drop spoonfuls onto lightly greased coolie sheets. Bake for 12 minutes or until golden brown.



Cooler Break: Hot(ty) Toddies


Okay, if you have never had a hot toddy, now is the time. You can measure things and be all exact with this, but that's no fun.

Bourbon
herbal tea
Honey
Fresh lemon juice.

Normally you just use water for this, but if you have some tea you like that is not too strong I like to use that tea as the base.

Brew a large cup of herbal tea in the microwave. Vanilla, chamomile, something like that. Sweeten the tea to taste with honey and then put in the juice of half a lemon. Throw the sqeezed lemon in there if you like. Then hit it with a few "glugs" of bourbon. Stir. You should have a great, balanced blend of thick sweetness, bourbony goodness and the tange of the lemon. Adjust to taste.

This drink is perfect when you have a cold, or on a cold fall or winter day when you need comfort.

Now, don't even talk to me about the pralines. They didn't work out.





Saturday, October 13, 2012

Bourbon-Marinated Hangar Steak with Maker’s Mark®-and-Balsamic Roasted Tomatoes, Nola's Mashed Red Potatoes, Buttermilk Bourbon Pie and Mint Juleps

ARKANSAS VS. KENTUCKY


Last week was a food blog fail. I planned to write about the Food Truck Festival in Little Rock and offer up a lot of photos, etc., but that all went terribly wrong under the oppression of a 45-degree drenching rain. But that's in the past!

In honor of our Kentucky opponents, this week's menu is inspired by our  favorite liquified substance: Maker’s Mark® bourbon!

Reasonable men can quibble about who makes the greatest bourbon. I can get really happy, for example with a bottle of Woodford Reserve. My boss, on the other hand, loves Blanton's and its ridiculous price. And, to be honest, I have made do at times with the likes of Old Crow. But for my money the best investment in liquid happiness  is a liter of Maker's dipped in that wonderful red wax-like plastic seal. The bottle itself is a work of art. The typeface on the label gives  me devilish ideas. Especially in fall, the sweet, caramel flavors of Maker's seem to complement everything. (Like fresh apple cake with caramel icing? Mmm hmm.)

Maker's  is subtle and nuanced enough for the most pretentious people around, but its still high-living for regular guys. It's like a really good applie pie: there's something to love there for everyone. I love it on the rocks, with Coke Zero and in various cocktails. But there's something really special about a homemade mint julep.I pull the sword from the stone as a husband every time I make this sweet minty drink for my wife.
This week's menu is totally bourbon-tastic with the sole exception of the potatoes. The spuds come from Emeril Lagasse, former boss of my brother-in-law, Frank Szymanski, who worked as a chef in his restaurants in New Orleans and the Mississippi Gulf Coast. 
So what about the football? Last week's Auburn great was a great achievement for this Razorback team. Let's have more of that.

Fueled by these boozy recipes, we plan to root these wounded, fullback-and-linebacker-deprived Hogs on to another great victory against tthe Wildcats, and look forward to what promises to be a great game in a couple of weeks with the Ole Miss Admiral Ackbar Black Bear Rebels, hopefully with our tight end and some defensive players back in the fold. You can look forward to some game notes today, but for now, on to the food!

Three of today's recipes were developed by working chefs who like bourbon. As it happens, they are all posted to the Maker's Mark website, so check visit www.makersmark.com/recipes if you want to
check my work.

Bourbon-Marinated Hangar Steak


The steak covered with the most fantastic meat sauce you will ever taste.
 What's a hangar steak, you say? Same as a skirt steak. Comes from the bottom side of the cow, and is frequently used for fajitas, with the meat sliced against the grain. There is a membrane on there that you have to cut off. But as they say in "Airplane," that's not important right now, because I'm not using skirt steak anyway. That's right -- we are substituting in the flatiron steak (from the top of the cow because we really like it and there is no membrane to remove.) But you go right ahead and make the recipe with the hangar/skirt steak. Whatever you buy, it will be three times as expensive as it was last year because of the corn-pocalypse of 2012.

This recipe was developed by Adam Fleischman, chef at a restaurant called Umami Burger. Prep time is 12 hours before hand to marinate the beef. Cook time is 10 minutes. Here is what chef Adam he has to say:

"This easy marinade makes for a distinctly bourbon-flavored steak that is great on top of a salad, alongside stir-fried vegetables or even on a sandwich. Hangar is a prized cut otherwise known as the "Butcher’s Steak," being well known for its flavor, texture and lower price point."

Let me summarize this way: It's incredible!
  • 1/2 cup Maker’s Mark® Bourbon
  • 6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, finely grated or minced
  • 1 teaspoon garlic, pressed or minced
  • 1 tablespoon shallots, minced
  • 1 pound hangar or skirt steak, trimmed
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream or veal stock (I think you know I don't have veal stock laying around)
To make the marinade, combine ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1 minute. Pour the marinade into a shallow dish large enough to hold the meat and set aside to cool.



Shallots in a small dice.




















Our steak in the bourbon marinade.
 Add the beef to the cooled marinade, stir to evenly coat and refrigerate overnight for no more than 12 hours.
Dry the beef with paper towels. Heat a large pan/skillet over high heat. (We are using a new Lodge pre-seasoned cast-iron skillet I got at Kroger).  Sear the beef 3 minutes on each side for medium rare, remove from the pan and rest meat. Cook down excess marinade as a pan sauce, whisking a little cream or veal stock in at the end. Slice and serve.

A note from John: This sauce is the best sauce I have ever had in my life! Little browned bits of shallot and garlic, bourbon, soy, the flavor of the beef itself...only one word describes this sauce: savory.

 

Maker's Mark and Balsamic Roasted Tomatoes

Steam covers the camera lense as the tomatoes come out of the oven.
 This recipe comes from Lee Anne Wong, Chef and Maker’s Mark® cookbook editor. Prep time is 10 minutes. Cook time is 10 minutes.
 "These tomatoes are about as easy as it gets when it comes to a simple side dish that is both elegant and rustic at the same time. The balsamic and Maker’s Mark® Bourbon reduce together in the oven to help glaze and flavor the tomatoes and work well with the acidity and natural sweetness of the tomatoes."




  • 3 tablespoons Maker’s Mark® Bourbon
  • 1 pound cherry tomatoes on the vine (if you can’t find on the vine, regular cherry tomatoes will work)
  • 2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar or cream of balsamic
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Preheat the oven to 500°F. Place the tomatoes in a single layer in a nonstick baking dish, leaving the vines intact.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Pour the dressing over the tomatoes (it will pool in the bottom of the dish). Roast the tomatoes in the oven for 8-10 minutes until the skins burst and the glaze has reduced, gently shaking the pan once during cooking.
To serve, carefully place the tomatoes on a plate. Spoon the reduced glazed over the tomatoes. Serve immediately.

Nola's Mashed Red Potatoes

These are God's own potatoes. For real.
I got lucky on this one. Sarah made these potatoes and they, by far, the best mashed potatoes I have ever experienced that were not adulterated by cheese, bacon, sour cream, etc. You must try this! Amazing.
  • 3/4 pound small red bliss potatoes, quartered
  • 12 whole roasted garlic cloves (you can get these from the olive bar at Kroger)
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon chopped green onion, for garnish
In a saucepan, cover unpeeled potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook just until tender -- do not overcook or potatoes will be watery. Drain well, return pan with potatoes to low heat and shake to dry. Squeeze in garlic cloves, cream, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Mash together with a potato masher until ingredients are combined but potatoes are still lumpy.

Buttermilk Bourbon Pie

Absorb that for a second. Buttermilk and bourbon. Can it get more southern? This recipe also was created by Lee Anne Wong. It should be called "Oh my God" pie. The crust alone -- a buttery pate brisee -- is incredibly easy but beautifully golden and crunchy. No shortening-based crust can live up to this standard. The filling is golden and radiant with the mellow-sweet flavor of the bourbon. The buttermilk and cider vinegar give the pie a slight tang that just works perfectly with the sweet caramel flavors. Amazing. And I love the brown spotty coloration the top of the pie gets in the oven. The flour, cornmeal and buttermilk combo give a breadiness to the custard that is unusual, unexpected and downright cool. But the bourbon is the best part!

Here is the butter crust. I am going to use this on all future pies.

The recipe calls for a dollop of creme fraiche or whipped cream. Frankly, I tried my own whipped cream and it simply masked the flavor of the pie too much. Go with the naked truth! And make sure that you serve the pie at room temperature. The first bite I took of the pie at breakfast was too cold for the flavors to fully register on my tongue. A later, room-temperature slice was like 22/7 -- perfect pi/pie.Prep time is 1.5 hours, and cook time is an hour. Here is what Lee Anne has to say:

"This rich and buttery pie is similar to the Southern favorite, chess pie. The addition of Maker’s Mark® and buttermilk give it a smooth and tangy flavor. Enjoy cold with a dollop of whipped cream or crème fraiche."

1/4 cup Maker’s Mark® Bourbon
1 recipe Pate Brisee
1-1/2 cups sugar
1-1/2 tablespoons cornmeal
1-1/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup buttermilk
3 large eggs
1  egg yolk (there was a weird type on the recipe here and this is my interpretation of what they meant)
1/2 cup melted butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar
Admit it: This photo is driving you crazy. You can not imagine how this pie tastes. Buttermilk and bourbon? Shut up.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out pie dough to 1/8 inch thick; place it in an 8-inch pie plate, and press into sides. Crimp as desired. Place in refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes.

Combine the sugar, cornmeal, flour and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Add the dry ingredients in and whisk until well blended. Pour the custard into the chilled pie shell.

Bake until the crust is golden brown and the center of the pie is set when touched, about 55-60 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.

Pate Brisee

  • 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small dice
  • 1-1/4 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • 1–3 tablespoons ice water
Mix the flour, sugar and salt together in a large bowl and then using your fingers or a pastry cutter, blend the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.

Add the ice water and gently knead the dough until it just comes together (you do not want to over work the dough, it will become tough). Knead several times more until the dough is smooth. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least an hour to rest.

Mint Julep

By John Haman


This is the julep d'amore.

This is my personal recipe, developed over months of experimentation. To make this work you must have fresh mint, good bourbon, simple syrup and something wooden like the handle of a wooden spoon to muddle with.

  • Fresh mint
  • Ice
  • Simple syrup (sugar and water)
  • Bourbon
First, make the simple syrup. Put two parts water to one part sugar in a sauce pan and heat it, stirring, until the last sugar crystals dissolve. At this point, the solution might start turning just a tad amber in color.That's ok but do not cook past the point where the sugar is dissolved. At this point, being in a rush to have my first julep, I usually plunge the bottom half of the saucepan down into a collander filled with ice to cool off the liquid quickly and fill with water around the sides of the saucepan to hasten the process.

Do not do this by putting the sugar directly into the glass an skipping the syrup step. If you do you will see a lot of sugar crystals suspended in your drink and it will be weird.

Muddling with a bamboo spoon.
With the syrup made, put enough loose mint leaves in the bottom of your glass to fill about 1.4 to 1/3 of the glass without packing. It is ok of there are some stems in there. Now take the muddler -- one of those little wooden baseball bats or the handle of a wooden spoon and bruise the leaves of the mint in the glass by compressing them and then stirring around, releasing the mint oils. Don't be dainty with this. Go ahead and crush that stuff around for like 30 seconds. Bruising it releases the flavor. Now, all the mint will be pressed against the bottom. 

Now this is key: The ice goes on next. Pack the glass all the way with ice. You must do this so the ice will hold down the mint leaves and keep little pieces from getting in your mouth while you drink.

Now, fill the ice-packed glass half-way with the bourbon. Then fill the rest of the way with the simple syrup (it can still be warm -- just not hot -- and stir. Take a sprig of mint and put it in the top of the drink for a garnish. And there you go: the best mint julep you have ever had.

For those who want to make a version for the kids, do everything the same but instead of using bourbon, put like a half-teaspoon of vanilla extract in there and use more syrup, possibly watering it down a little so it is not so sweet.Leftover simple syrup is perfect for sweet tea.

And here is another  tip: Make a lot of syrup, have a good amount of mint, have friends over, buy some lime and rum, and you can make both juleps and mojitos with the mint and syrup, easy as can be.